Sports climbing and injuries
Ley Quarry, 31 May 08
I would never describe myself as a sports climber (I am in fact sneaking this entry in hoping no one notices its out of place), I get scared going for the bolts. But every now and again I like to dabble. Saturday was climbing day but we needed to be back by 5ish and the tides were wrong at Aberdour. We felt like some exploration. With Antoine, Niels and Daniel on board we decided to check out one of the Dundee quarries. Antoine had been to Balmashanner before and described it as hard climbing in a hole, it didn’t sound appealing. Legaston quarry seemed to have the most climbs and also some trad but looked to be about a 2 hour drive, as was Kirriemuir of which I’ve heard good things. This left Ley quarry, about 1½ hours drive, which has some very easy leads and some hard ones without much in-between. This is a sandstone quarry located near Coupar Angus with a reputation for stretchy moves. On such a sunny day we were also keen to see the sun. As it turned out Ley quarry was the right choice for this. Apparently Legaston gets the sun from mid afternoon onwards during the summer, whilst Kirriemuir is quite a sunny spot.
We found the quarry without too much trouble, only one wrong turn. We drove up the track which was quite overgrown and rutted, later finding out that most people park at the bottom of this unless they have 4wd. On entering the quarry we first walked past the bouldering wall, which apparently has two excellent traverses, we didn’t investigate. The first bolted wall of the quarry is small (the Small Wall), only 7m or so and also with some of the easiest sports leads in Scotland, grades ranging from 3+ to 6b. However, we all agreed that adding at least half a grade to all the routes we did that day would have been more representative. Just beyond the Small Wall we came upon the pool, which initially seemed like a deep hole, so far quite picturesque. The Pool Wall (~11-12m) looked steep and dry.
We warmed up on the Small Wall, during which time a group from Dundee arrived. Scarred for Life (6a) gave some interesting moves
though as the guide said was much easier for those who are tall. Magic pockets (6b*) was also very nice. Then we ventured to the Pool Wall, which involved moving down the banking and edging around the rock at the bottom with the water at your feet. Here if you look behind you, there is a dump site and a layer of beasties on the murky water, not quite so picturesque. Antoine led Five Magics (6b+**) making it look easy. Myself and Niels than top-roped it twice each, with the belayer attached to the lower bolt to prevent any swims. The moves are very nice with some crimping and delicate feet and a big move in the middle which once I got my feet right felt just comfortable. I wondered how shorter people would find this move. Some of the bolts seemed a bit awkward for clipping on the lead. In the meantime Antoine and Daniel were on Nectar (6a+*) where Antoine found clipping the top clip quite bold, the guide describes this as a bit of a stretch for those who are vertically challenged. Otherwise the route is very nice. Antoine then moved onto Nirvana (7a+***) whilst myself and Niels turned our attention to Footfall (6a*). Niels led this than I top-roped it before a lead, feeling pretty pumped by the top.
We also had a peek at the routes on the other side of the pool which have damp beginnings. With a bit of confusion Niels had a go at leading a very green The Magic Thumb (7b) which we thought was Traditional Imperfections (6a*). He retreated. We were on The Waterfront rather than the right side of the Pool Wall. On this side the banking is steeper and the ground pretty loose, a rope rail here wouldn’t go amiss. We did try to investigate further but were confused about which route was which, where they began and the best way to get to the bottom of them. Maybe next time. By now it was time to head back home. I have since learnt that Ley quarry isn’t greatly popular among the locals, though it seemed fine for a days trip. My sources revealed that Kirriemuir (topos can be picked up from Avertical world in Dundee) is a far better choice, perhaps even more so than the popular Legaston.
During Tuesday morning pins and needles moved into my right hand. Thinking nothing of it I tried to shake it out, then stretch it out. Then it occurred to me that this was something more serious than pins and needles. I was distraught that evening. The next day I booked myself in for a sports massage with Briana and a prognosis. It came as a great relief to learn that 6 months on from my last right shoulder injury, this was a different injury. However, the fact remains that my right shoulder is a vulnerable area. I discussed this with Briana who suggested there was a few reasons for this. Firstly, I roll my shoulders forward whilst climbing, effectively putting too much strain on the small muscles of my shoulders rather than using the stronger muscles in my back, thus climbing less efficiently and risking injury. With shoulders rolled forward, my elbows are behind my shoulders when they should be in front. Secondly, being aware of my former injury, I don’t use my shoulders as evenly as I should. My lower left back was also very tight which may be from carrying too much on my left side. Both these issues are quite common.
I later discussed this with Jamie for a shiatsu point of view. In these terms climbing is very yang (think exercises which hunch the shoulders) thus neglecting ying (think chest forward, shoulders back). The result of this is (where posture is correct) the strengthening of the large muscles but the gradual weakening of the small muscles of the shoulders, in other words an imbalance and a vulnerability to injuries. Thus cross-training, though lacking in interest is of great importance. Despite my adversion to the gym, I am now coming round to understanding the benefits of a regime to build up the muscles climbing shouldn’t touch. Other possibilities include swimming (back stroke), exercises with a band and yoga/pilates. I personally now choose to avoid yoga, I have hyper-flexibility (though not double jointed) and even though I can get into some of the positions doesn’t mean I should. With both yoga and pilates, it is very important to find a good instructor who corrects your positions when required, otherwise you could end up with more injuries. Back to climbing I also need to focus more on maintaining the correct posture with my shoulders back. This could be tricky after years of bad habits.
Ley Quarry, 31 May 08
I would never describe myself as a sports climber (I am in fact sneaking this entry in hoping no one notices its out of place), I get scared going for the bolts. But every now and again I like to dabble. Saturday was climbing day but we needed to be back by 5ish and the tides were wrong at Aberdour. We felt like some exploration. With Antoine, Niels and Daniel on board we decided to check out one of the Dundee quarries. Antoine had been to Balmashanner before and described it as hard climbing in a hole, it didn’t sound appealing. Legaston quarry seemed to have the most climbs and also some trad but looked to be about a 2 hour drive, as was Kirriemuir of which I’ve heard good things. This left Ley quarry, about 1½ hours drive, which has some very easy leads and some hard ones without much in-between. This is a sandstone quarry located near Coupar Angus with a reputation for stretchy moves. On such a sunny day we were also keen to see the sun. As it turned out Ley quarry was the right choice for this. Apparently Legaston gets the sun from mid afternoon onwards during the summer, whilst Kirriemuir is quite a sunny spot.
We found the quarry without too much trouble, only one wrong turn. We drove up the track which was quite overgrown and rutted, later finding out that most people park at the bottom of this unless they have 4wd. On entering the quarry we first walked past the bouldering wall, which apparently has two excellent traverses, we didn’t investigate. The first bolted wall of the quarry is small (the Small Wall), only 7m or so and also with some of the easiest sports leads in Scotland, grades ranging from 3+ to 6b. However, we all agreed that adding at least half a grade to all the routes we did that day would have been more representative. Just beyond the Small Wall we came upon the pool, which initially seemed like a deep hole, so far quite picturesque. The Pool Wall (~11-12m) looked steep and dry.We warmed up on the Small Wall, during which time a group from Dundee arrived. Scarred for Life (6a) gave some interesting moves
though as the guide said was much easier for those who are tall. Magic pockets (6b*) was also very nice. Then we ventured to the Pool Wall, which involved moving down the banking and edging around the rock at the bottom with the water at your feet. Here if you look behind you, there is a dump site and a layer of beasties on the murky water, not quite so picturesque. Antoine led Five Magics (6b+**) making it look easy. Myself and Niels than top-roped it twice each, with the belayer attached to the lower bolt to prevent any swims. The moves are very nice with some crimping and delicate feet and a big move in the middle which once I got my feet right felt just comfortable. I wondered how shorter people would find this move. Some of the bolts seemed a bit awkward for clipping on the lead. In the meantime Antoine and Daniel were on Nectar (6a+*) where Antoine found clipping the top clip quite bold, the guide describes this as a bit of a stretch for those who are vertically challenged. Otherwise the route is very nice. Antoine then moved onto Nirvana (7a+***) whilst myself and Niels turned our attention to Footfall (6a*). Niels led this than I top-roped it before a lead, feeling pretty pumped by the top.
We also had a peek at the routes on the other side of the pool which have damp beginnings. With a bit of confusion Niels had a go at leading a very green The Magic Thumb (7b) which we thought was Traditional Imperfections (6a*). He retreated. We were on The Waterfront rather than the right side of the Pool Wall. On this side the banking is steeper and the ground pretty loose, a rope rail here wouldn’t go amiss. We did try to investigate further but were confused about which route was which, where they began and the best way to get to the bottom of them. Maybe next time. By now it was time to head back home. I have since learnt that Ley quarry isn’t greatly popular among the locals, though it seemed fine for a days trip. My sources revealed that Kirriemuir (topos can be picked up from Avertical world in Dundee) is a far better choice, perhaps even more so than the popular Legaston.
During Tuesday morning pins and needles moved into my right hand. Thinking nothing of it I tried to shake it out, then stretch it out. Then it occurred to me that this was something more serious than pins and needles. I was distraught that evening. The next day I booked myself in for a sports massage with Briana and a prognosis. It came as a great relief to learn that 6 months on from my last right shoulder injury, this was a different injury. However, the fact remains that my right shoulder is a vulnerable area. I discussed this with Briana who suggested there was a few reasons for this. Firstly, I roll my shoulders forward whilst climbing, effectively putting too much strain on the small muscles of my shoulders rather than using the stronger muscles in my back, thus climbing less efficiently and risking injury. With shoulders rolled forward, my elbows are behind my shoulders when they should be in front. Secondly, being aware of my former injury, I don’t use my shoulders as evenly as I should. My lower left back was also very tight which may be from carrying too much on my left side. Both these issues are quite common.I later discussed this with Jamie for a shiatsu point of view. In these terms climbing is very yang (think exercises which hunch the shoulders) thus neglecting ying (think chest forward, shoulders back). The result of this is (where posture is correct) the strengthening of the large muscles but the gradual weakening of the small muscles of the shoulders, in other words an imbalance and a vulnerability to injuries. Thus cross-training, though lacking in interest is of great importance. Despite my adversion to the gym, I am now coming round to understanding the benefits of a regime to build up the muscles climbing shouldn’t touch. Other possibilities include swimming (back stroke), exercises with a band and yoga/pilates. I personally now choose to avoid yoga, I have hyper-flexibility (though not double jointed) and even though I can get into some of the positions doesn’t mean I should. With both yoga and pilates, it is very important to find a good instructor who corrects your positions when required, otherwise you could end up with more injuries. Back to climbing I also need to focus more on maintaining the correct posture with my shoulders back. This could be tricky after years of bad habits.
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