Hammer, HVS, Etive (Trilleachan) slabs, Sunday 18th May

It was Ruth Campbell (of gear giving fame) who first insisted I should head to the slabs. This was 3 years ago and at the time even the thought gave me cold sweats. So even in feeling eager to at last check them out, I feel that I’ve come a long way. Partly it is the relative ease of accessibility which allows for the justifiable popularity of this crag, the other major component being the collection of immensely high quality routes, with a number of 4 starred routes. The rock type is Starav granite, set at an angle of 40º on the slabs. With a lack of cracks, it has a reputation for run outs and boldness. The level of friction has been described as ‘just sufficient to maintain position’. We were about to put this to the test.

We were in luck with the weather, being treated in our drive up the valley by stunning sunny views. The 30 minute trek across boggy ground was straightforward with our destination ahead of us, glinting in the sunlight. I was mocked for wearing gaiters but was glad of having them both on the muddy ground and in protecting me from the ticks. Our route of the day was chosen by Barney, it was almost The Pause, a supposedly soft touch E1 (I simply nodded at this suggestion, dry-mouthed) but another climbing pair were just about to start this so instead we opted for Hammer. Finding the base of the climb was the first challenge of the day. No actually, the second, the first challenge was getting up a 6am. In the end we added a pitch 0 to get to the beginning, I just wasn’t keen on scrambling what seemed a relatively tough section. We then agreed on pitches, myself with the odd numbers. Then I was underway, a wee traverse to the left and then up to the corner. The first anchor was on a tree and once set, I turned to admire the view down to the loch, it was simply breathtaking.

Barney led the next pitch with ease and set anchor at the base of the scoop, something he felt I should lead. On first inspection I noted the lack of gear, then the lack of handholds, then the lack of footholds. I wasn’t convinced. But with his encouragement, moved forwards, the crack in the corner my aiming point. My language soon became colourful as I edged along precariously, gripping the few small edges with my fingers and searching keenly for footholds. I then noticed miniscule nodules which were a lighter shade than the rest of the section. Suddenly the cursing stopped and with a new feeling of confidence, I tentatively stepped onto these, aware that the grip they gave me was sufficient. By now I was chuckling to myself, with an intense feeling of exhilaration. I was doing what a few moments earlier had seemed impossible with relative ease, all the while aware that my only piece of gear was a few metres back at the anchor Barney had set. But this only added to the magic of the pitch, one which Barney described as being the best in Scotland at this grade. Though limited in my experience, at this point I have to agree. On reaching the corner I turned back and grinned, then set about placing some pro in the crack. I was now aware that having smaller fingers was an advantage on this climb, as I gripped the narrow crack and moved up. This section was definitely the pumpiest bit so far but with footholds and handholds this wasn’t too much of a problem. I arrived at the first step and almost fell into it. I then had a lovely move onto the next belay stance, and went about setting anchor. Barney soon joined me, his apprehension for the next pitch evident.

To begin with the pitch continues to follow the narrow crack up the corner. Then, a good few metres up, there is a traverse section to the right, this being the crux section. At this point Barney’s nerves were evident and it took him a few goes before he got the moves, his relief vocalised as he reached actual handholds on the other side. Then he once again moved swiftly up a flake and then over a roof before setting the next belay. So it was my turn. I cleaned up the belay and set off up the corner, finding this section pumpier than before maybe due to feeling apprehensive.

I arrived at the traverse to appreciate why Barney had hesitated. The footholds were slim, slanted and a bit shiny, the handholds limited tiny crimps, the distance to the decent handholds considerable. Whereas on the scoop section I had felt confidence in the footholds, here this was not the case. Nonetheless, I began to move across using baby steps and trying to remember to breath. With each foot step, I held my breath and hesitated, Barney shouted down encouragement. Then there was another lighter-shade tiny nodule, I stepped onto this gladly. A foot swap was required, I gulped and went for it, very thankful that my foot stuck and that I could now reach the middle section. I felt respect for Barney leading these moves, for an HVS they seemed very stiff, much more E1/E2. I moved up and past Barney, ready to lead the final pitch. This was a lot more straightforward but still with plenty of interest. I moved up and then right underneath a roof. I placed gear where I could in the crack I was gripping with my fingers, but felt my best option was to move quickly. The further along I moved the slimmer the crack and footholds seemed to get and the less gear I could place. I did get a few comments about not protecting my second sufficiently, especially as Barney couldn’t always grip the tiny crack. Zero cams would have been good but the only one we had was on Barney’s harness.

I reached the final anchor and set up, Barney soon joining me. We chose to stay on the ropes until the path improved just past the top off of The Pause where the other climbing pair were just emerging. Then we began a challenging scramble down. We reached the coffin stone to find numerous other climbing pairs comparing stories and fanning off midges. And so we joined in, immediately feeling part of the group despite never having met any of these climbers before. I guess we were united by the common purpose of the day, whether it was a VS or an E2. I was momentarily embarrassed at this point receive a text message, having left my phone on for the camera and not expecting reception. I made a mental note to put it on silent in the future.

Then, on deciding to call it a day we walked back down. I managed to find what I suspect was the muddiest path back and made full use of my gaitors as I sank into the mud. Barney skipped back with barely a speck of mud on his boots let alone his trousers. I always have held magnetic qualitities for mud. Being in the west, the journey back of course included a stop off in Tyndrum at Real foods where they do a great gluten-free fish and chip supper, a satisfying end to an extremely satisfying day. Oh yeah, and I was offered a new job, all good.